Grand Canyon and Meteor Crater

I decided to knock a couple things off my bucket list this week. For a guy who has lived in Arizona over half his life now, it was time to visit the Grand Canyon. For some reason it’s one of those places I kind of expected to visit with someone special, but no point in waiting.

I was looking into the trip a couple weeks in advance to coincide with dark skies for some Milky Way shots. It was tough making up my mind if I should go to the North or South Rim. I had picked some places that would work for a really long day into the night. A few days before I was thinking the South Rim would be best. There are a few areas to peel off east for camping and great foregrounds for a night shot of the Milky Way.

The day of I just woke up and Googled Grand Canyon. It came up with the Skywalk. The Mitsubishi Outlander was loaded up for a night of photography and I headed out. And once again proper planning was not happening. I just got out of Phoenix when Google Maps directed me to Arizona State Highway 74. I was thinking, “Hmmm that doesn’t seem right…” Then continued anyway thinking it wouldn’t be that big of deal. I needed to kill time until the afternoon casted shadows along the canyon anyway. When I arrived I realized this was more suited for tourism.

Despite what it looks like zoomed out on a digital map the Grand Canyon is pretty large. I ended up turning around to make it to the South Rim before dark. Honestly this is how I like operating anyway. It’s exploration and scouting for future trips. One day I will give it a go again.

Please check with the Navajo Nation Parks for guided tours on sovereign land.

Desert View Watch Tower

So after another 200 something miles I ended up at the Desert View Watch Tower. Along the way I noticed the Slate Fire billowing smoke. The smoke was dissipating over the Navajo Nation along Route 64. It created some interesting filtered light as the afternoon sun shone through. Eventually I was on the other side of the smoke at the Grand Canyon Desert View Watch Tower entrance.

Image taken from Desert View Watch Tower viewing area. Smoke from the Slate fire can be seen in the upper left of the photo.
Image taken from Desert View Watch Tower viewing area. Smoke from the Slate fire can be seen in the upper left of the photo.

The crowd was light since it was a week day, but still required some patience to get in position for shots. I have to admit my issues with vertigo kicked in. What was weird though is when looking through the view finder of the camera the feelings went away. Only to come back with a vengeance soon as I pulled the camera away. I was sure I was going to lose balance and bounce off canyon walls to a brutal demise.

View of the desert watch tower over the Grand Canyon with cloudy smoke filled skies
View of the desert watch tower over the Grand Canyon with cloudy smoke filled skies
View southwest of the watch tower with the afternoon sun setting
View southwest of the watch tower with the afternoon sun setting

I tested my gut a few more times along the southwest side of the watch tower with no guardrail. I had to squat to keep from feeling wobbly, but still managed to get this photo above.

A crow happened to fly by as I was setting up for a stacked image of the Grand Canyon and Colorado River
Purple Majesty - Composite image with colorization and layer blending
Purple Majesty – Composite image with colorization and layer blending

As I was walking back to the parking lot I came across some Apache Plume. And a Tarantula Hawk… Not sure what it is, but seems like I have been seeing a lot of these insects lately. This time I was in a better position to get a great shot of the feather like flowers with the dark shades of the the ominous insect.

Apache Plume close-up
Apache Plume close-up
A Tarantula Hawk in Apache Plume with curled antennae
A Tarantula Hawk in Apache Plume with curled antennae

Desert View Drive

It’s funny how quickly the sun sets when you have things to get done in daylight. I continued along Desert View Drive to see more spectacular views of this amazing chasm cutting through the earth. The next stop was Navajo Point, which was a little less crowded.

View form Navajo Point of the Grand Canyon
View form Navajo Point of the Grand Canyon
View of sun over a hazy Grand Canyon from Lipan Point
View of sun over a hazy Grand Canyon from Lipan Point

I continued on to Lipan Point where the wind and sun created a view DaVinci would love with an endless atmospheric perspective. Looking at my map, I knew I didn’t have much time to spare getting the best pictures. I was pleasantly surprised with how well these images stacked for a high definition resolution (HDR) without using a tripod.

Western view of the Grand Canyon from Lipan point.
Western view of the Grand Canyon from Lipan point.
The sunsets behind the clouds and trees from an unnamed scenic viewpoint
The sunsets behind the clouds and trees from an unnamed scenic viewpoint
A juniper flower catching the last of the sunlight.
A juniper flower catching the last of the sunlight.
Duck on a Rock scenic Viewpoint of the Grand Canyon
Duck on a Rock scenic Viewpoint of the Grand Canyon

The view of the Duck on a Rock was a quick stop. I noticed along the way people were using drones. The kid flying one here mentioned if it went sideways he would lose it. It makes me wonder how many drones and other objects rest at the bottom of these scenic outlooks of the Grand Canyon.

Unknown viewpoint of the Grand Canyon during the Blue hour

The last picture I took I think gives a better idea of the scope of the Grand Canyon. First of all Evil Knievel ain’t making that with out some wings. This was created by water over millions of years. Millions of years! It makes you think about how brief our lives are in the grand scheme of it all. Also it made me think about how nice it would be to sleep in my bed and I drove back to Phoenix for the night.

Meteor Crater

The next day I woke up and started working on the Grand Canyon images. I was a little miffed about the Slate Fire and clouds. But both were out of my control. I kept taking a look at the evolving weather along Baja, Mexico to see if there was a chance for clear skies that night. I figured it was worth a try and headed North again.

Panoramic view of Meteor Crater
Apollo 11 test capsule

As a kid it was a dream of mine to become an astronaut, when I saw the Apollo 11 test capsule was there I had to go. Meteor Crater is a private facility that was also used to train astronauts for the moon landing. To me it’s an engineering feat that we did so much with so little at that time in history. Notice how this looks like a diving bell, which is a 400 year old invention. The difference between water and the layers of the atmosphere is density along with other gases. So basically this is a really sturdy balloon.

It’s also where scientific advancements were made in determining what a meteor crater looks like in comparison to other similar geological phenomenon. Now think of the crater by the Yucatan Peninsula, yikes! But this is the knowledge we need to develop technology to prevent future catastrophe. As pessimistic as I am at times, I believe humanity will transcend all the politics and grievances we have with each other to survive millions of years.

View from the top of Meteor Crater of Humphrey's Peak and the Slate Fire smoke
View from the top of Meteor Crater of Humphrey’s Peak and the Slate Fire smoke

Chavez Pass Road

Sunset through ponderosa pine and dust along Chavez Pass
Sunset through Ponderosa Pine  (Pinus ponderosa) and dust along Chavez Pass

Along the way in to Meteor Crater I saw a nicely grated road heading south. Part of my visit was to see how a shot of the Milky Way might work out. I had called earlier in the day to see about staying late, but was informed I would have to wait for the next event still being planned for this fall.

I asked the person in the ticket booth about the road and was told it goes to Highway 87. He warned me I would need a 4×4 to get through the river, but I gave it a try anyway. There are cattle and the land on both sides of the road is posted private property in most parts until the road gets rough.

I made it through some pretty rugged areas and once again had to turn back when the going was too much for my front wheel drive vehicle. For the most part it had the clearance, but getting up hills with loose dirt and rocks was beyond it’s capabilities. There was a couple times I had a white flash of fear run through me thinking I might be spending the night out there.

Sun setting on Chavez Pass Road

After turning back I stopped a couple times to capture the setting sun. This area is also grounds to a herd of elk and by the smell of it a mountain lion.

South of Meteor Crater Panoramic Sunset with Humphrey's Peak in the distance
South of Meteor Crater Panoramic Sunset with Humphrey’s Peak in the distance

Milky Way

Milky Way Core with clouds and light pollution from Payson, AZ
Milky Way Core with clouds and light pollution from Payson, AZ

I planned on using the road to get to Jacks Canyon or a place I could be without being disturbed in some dark skies. I stayed up until about midnight getting my shots in before taking a nap. The dark skies were amazing. I could see the Milky Way like it was a ring around Earth. But that’s not actually what it is. That would be like saying the sun revolves around Earth. Our Solar System is just one of millions of stars floating in the Milky Way Galaxy.

I woke up around 1:30 in the morning and started to take more photos. I’m still learning how to adjust my equipment to line up shots. Basically, it’s like taking a vertical panoramic photo from the inside of an orb. Like an artist translating a 3D object into a 2D canvas from inside it.

I was using a 50mm for this final image, which later I stacked three images each to reduce camera noise and a final panoramic of three images for this result. The Milky Way continues 180 degrees and I knew then it would get a bit confusing in production since I wasn’t meticulously keeping shot notes.

Milky Way at 10:30 PM PST Jacks Canyon June 8th, 2021
Milky Way at 10:30 PM PST Jacks Canyon June 8th, 2021
Sunrise through junipers in the high desert of Arizona
Sunrise through junipers in the high desert of Arizona

I wasn’t getting the best of sleep that night, but I was grateful to wake up to the rising sun. The trip was successful in my opinion. When I go out like this, I just want to come home with at least one good image. I achieved what I set out to do with this time. Despite the folly and physical and mental pain. This is about doing things I didn’t have an opportunity to do before. And mostly for the challenge of living life outside of the bubble, I live in Phoenix. Get out for some sunsets and Milky Way photos.

Please check with the Navajo Nation Parks for guided tours on sovereign land.

Check out Grand Canyon West, where you can walk over the Grand Canyon on a glass bridge!

Arcosanti Daytrip

Southern Face from gully on the visitor trail.

I like how my delivery work can turn into a day trip for photos. It’s not something I could do in an office job where they expect you to be at your desk looking busy all day.

Last Thursday I had a quick delivery to the outskirts of Phoenix and decided to see if I could get paid to go back with a trip. Otherwise that afternoon traffic in construction going East on the 101 was a no-go. I received a round trip with a group of young transplants from Chicago and they mentioned Sedona at some point.

Hmmm I was a third of the way there already. Hell why not? Right about the turn off point to Sedona my gut told me to pull off and check the map. I pull into a gas station to review Google maps as the afternoon sun was about to drop quick, it didn’t leave room for much exploration.

For some reason Arcosanti popped into my head and I Googled it. What? It’s where? No lie, I look up and was staring at the road sign pointing to Arcosanti. My observation skills were on point.

It’s a long bumpy road past some other local business or ranches. At the end is a small dirt parking lot and a paved path to the entrance. Met this orange tabby along the way.

Arcology = Architecture and Ecology

Paolo Soleri is the visionary behind Arcosanti. If you are not familiar with either check out the website it’s an entire college course once you enter the rabbit hole.

Arcosanti showcases the principals of Arcology or Architecture and Ecology. If you look back at the cover image there is a stair encasement to the right that leads to the visitor areas. 

Taliesin West is where Paolo studied for a while after earning his doctorate in Italy. The use of land and architecture goes back to ancient history most of my observations are Arcosanti uses Roman and Egyptian technology for heating, cooling, and lighting.

The basic thought is we are wasting space, wasting time, wasting resources, causing pollution, and most importantly removing ourselves from nature one street at a time. An Arcologically developed city would condense populations to make use of resources more efficiently. Think of science/fiction space exploration movies with an entire city housed in one ship. 

Once I made it to the third floor visitor center I took a look around and held off on more photos. Eventually I was greeted by someone and paid for the $15 tour. Depending on the time you can buy lunch and even stay the night. I was told photos were ok (free advertising) and to have a seat where this Wind Bell was on display next to the tour video playing.

As the video ended we got the spiel from our tour guide. Our tour group consisted of me and another dude, so easy day for her.

Our first stop was the ceramic workshop/amphitheater. This time of year is gorgeous for working outdoors in the shade with a light breeze. Come summer I would be interested in seeing the temps and probably will for a chance to get better night shots.

I’ll be honest my listening became selective at this point as I was there to take pictures and my camera needed attention. Our tour guide probably was glad we didn’t have a ton of questions too.

Checkout the gallery below for some of the shots on the guided tour.

Visitors Trail

There’s also a non-guided tour persay, but it won’t get you inside very far. Although a great place for a panoramic shot of Arcosanti. At the bottom of the stair encasement is the door to the Visitors Trail. The end of the trail is marked with a kite shaped awning on a single pole, which is on the other side of the valley. It’s maybe a mile long in total, down the valley, up the other side and back. A little slippery in spots, but not incredibly challenging. I did it in my driving shoes.

Future Plans

I’m going to look into the overnight stay a little more. I left wanting to spend more time making the right adjustments, catching the right light, the right angle, setting up HDR shots.

Along the way home I decided to stop and visit Bloody Basin – Agua Fria National Monument for my sunset shot. Ended up being more interested in making this composite of the Orion constellation. The brightest star, Betelgeuse, is spinning off plasma as it moves through the universe. Turns out what I was observing was dust.

Well anyways thanks for reading, go check Arcosanti out for yourself. Certainly worth a quick stop on your way north.

Testing on the AZ Canal

UV Lens Filter Images

I got a new lens filter for stubborn reflections that create glare. What I was looking for in the cover photo is what I saw through my polarized sunglasses. I was using a UV lens filter on the camera at the time, which filtered out the full spectrum of light colors on the evaporating whisps. It was pretty cool and something to remember. Clouds like these evaporate quickly in Phoenix even during January. So getting that shot again is possible. Today it literally disappeared.

The panorama of Camelback Mountain was taken from the Northeastern corner on the trail by the Arizona Canal Trail. I was looking for a better angle ending up at 56th St. and Indian School. Although shutting down 56th St. to get the view from the middle of the road was an idea.

The G.R. Herberger Park is the park many people pass on a daily basis and maybe say, “Huh?! I need to check that out sometime.”

And then it’s too late. Traffic is going 45 MPH in a 35 MPH School Zone and you’re trying to maintain your lane on an obscured curve with no where to pull off.

Well if you can manage to safely navigate your way there, here’s the grand entrance to SRP’s Arizona Falls on the Arizona Canal Trail. I was thinking my kid would have enjoyed seeing this.

Later on I think I would have wanted him wearing a toddler version of an orange arctic survival suit tethered to a boom. Like a toxic waste dump space walk.

Fog added in photoshop. Clearly not a place to take kids.

The trail and park lead to this carefully designed building to fit in with the affluent neighborhood. Not the one above. Scroll down.

This one. Along with some cool views of Camelback Mountain and safety features it’s a functional hydroelectric station and museum. This also might be a welcomed stop on a mid-summer run.

Circular Polarized Lens Filter Images

A few miles down on the Northwest corner of Goldwater and 5th Ave. is another parking area with a tunnel to avoid the crosswalk, which I found on my way back to the vehicle. The photos below are images that were taken with a Circular Polarized Lens Filter .

Not so bad once inside. No graffiti, clowns, weird smells, wraiths, trash,
Perpetuating Stereotypes?

The above shot is using a Polarized filter. It didn’t get the anti-glare effect I was hoping for. Notice the light coming in through the door towards the camera. This shot might be better at sunset with less direct sunlight and light coming from behind the camera. The angle of the shot matters.

Here’s a shot with the sun over my right shoulder. The right horse would have had the glare issues had it not been for the Polarized filter. The patina is hard to see during this time of day and angle, even with the naked eye glare washes out minute details. The middle horse did receive some extra Photoshop love.

And another photo that is hard to capture in all it’s detail. From this angle the structure never sees sunlight. Wait for the clouds and it loses luster. Nothing a tripod and patience can’t fix. I was traveling light taking advantage of a cool breezy day to do a little Urban Hiking on the AZ Canal. Next time! Because everytime is a scouting trip. The only difference is my knowledge and preparedness each adventure.